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Domaine Roger Perrin Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Châteauneuf-du-Pape is perhaps the best known appellation in the Southern Rhône. And for good reason. There are a number of striking details about Châteauneuf that differentiate it from its neighboring appellation. Its soil is composed of galets roulés, large round rocks who soak up the sun's heat during the day and give it to the vines at night. Grenache is the most widely planted grape, but 13 varietals are allowed within the blend, including five white varietals. The Châteauneuf appellation, established in 1923, has the highest minimum alcohol content of any appellation in France -- 1 2.5%. However, most Châteauneuf-du-Papes nowadays don't have a problem in reaching 14% alcohol.

Vineyards have existed on the Roger Perrin property between Orange and Châteauneuf since the beginning of the 1900's. However, the Domaine Roger Perrin was founded in 1969 when Roger Perrin took over the domaine after his father-in-law's retirement. Roger died unexpectedly during the harvest in 1986, and his son Luc -- who had studied enology and done a apprenticeship at Beaucastel, took over the domaine.

Slowly Luc Perrin has increased the quality at his domaine so that now people recognize his name as a producer rather than thinking he is one of the "Beaucastel Perrins." The families, although neighbors and friends, actually have no familial ties.

Perrin's holdings include 37 hectares (91 acres) of vineyards, spread out over sixty-one plots. While some of the vines are more than 100 years old, the average age of the vines is 60 years old. 85% of the vines are over 20 years of age. The Châteauneuf vines are planted on two types of soil: clay and limestone subsoil covered by galets roules so familiar to anyone who has seen Châteauneuf vineyards. The second type of soil has much more sand to it and gives wines that show a little more aromatic and tannic finesse.

Luc Perrin pauses for the camera while putting together a hypothetical blend of 2003 Chateauneuf-du-Pape

Perrin also makes a few excellent Côtes du Rhônes coming from two different soil types: sand with some large stones (somewhat like the second type of Châteauneuf soil) and red limestone which sits upon a bed of gravel (which gives fruity and round results).

Luc Perrin frequently sells lots of wine to the négociant firm Tardieu et Laurent, and has recenly been called a new star in Châteauneuf-du-Pape in Robert Parker's Wine Advocate.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge: (76% Grenache, 12% Syrah, 7% Mourvèdre, 3% Cinsault, 2% Clairette, 2% Counoise, 2% Vaccarese) The grapes are harvested by hand and partially destemmed (30-40%) depending upon the ripeness of the vintage. Vinification takes place in cement tanks over a period of 18-to-23 days. Certain lots of grapes are harvested separately, but generally two or three grapes are vinified together. 30-40% of the wine is raised in foudre, 40-50% in enamel-lined tanks, and 15-20% in new oak. The wines are normally blended after one year.

2006: Inky ruby. Fresh strawberry and raspberry on the nose, with seductive floral and mineral qualities adding interest. Pinot-like in its delicacy and focus, offering juicy red berry flavors , silky tannins and a long, spicy finish. More graceful and lacy than the 2005, and I suspect this will drink well out of the chute. 91-93 points.

— The International Wine Cellar, January/February 2008

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve Vieilles Vignes: (81% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 5% Counoise, 4% Mourvèdre) This cuvée is made only in exceptional vintages. It is a selection of the oldest parcels (70-100 years) planted on the best exposed terroir. Similar vinification to the Châteauneuf, except 60% is aged in barrel and 40% is aged in foudre. The aging period lasts 13 months. The wine is not fined or filtered.

2005: Deep ruby. Intensely perfumed aromas of red and dark berry preserves, sexy gingerbread, anise and vanilla. Sweet raspberry, blackberry and cherry-vanilla flavors boast impressive depth and clarity, with firm but harmonious tannins adding grip. Turns spicier on the finish but maintains a remarkably sexy, fruit-dominated personality. Has the material to age, but this is awfully delicious now.

— The International Wine Cellar, January/February 2008

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc: (45-50% Grenache Blanc (which brings roundness, structure and typicity), 18-20% Roussanne (which brings fat, length and fruit), 20-22% Clairette (50% was planted in 1921, which brings fruit), 5-7% Bourboulenc (from vines planted in 1921 and which brings floral notes and acidity). These grapes are vinified separately, pressed directly, and fermentated sur lie. The Roussanne is vinified in new oak. After its alcoholic fermentation, its lees are stirred a couple of times a week for seven months. The other grapes are raised in temperature controlled stainless steel where they harmonize until the final blend.

Côtes du Rhône Prestige Vieilles Vignes: (80% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 5% Counoise and Vaccarese, from old vines (45 year old minimum) from parcels located close to Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Part of the vineyards used were planted by Luc Perrin's great-grandfather. Hand-harvested fruit with a severe selection. Destemming is normally about 20-50% of the volume. Made only in good or great years. Similar vinification to the Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with a 15-20 day maceration. Bottling takes place in May or June following the harvest.

Côtes du Rhône Rouge: (75% Grenache, 15% Cinsault, 10% Syrah) Hand-harvested fruit which is 100% destemmed. The varietals are fermented together in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks for 10-12 days. Bottled in March to guard the maximum amount of fruit.

Côtes du Rhône Blanc: (50% Viognier, 40% Grenache Blanc, 10% Clairette) Hand-harvested fruit aged in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. Aged sur lie with punch down for 5 months. Bottled in March to preserve its fruit. It has bright notes of apricot, pear and cream, and finishes with a touch of citrus and wax.