Wine Regions of France: Southern Rhône
France Regions:
Rhône-Alpes, Provence
Christian Amido, who died from complications of a brain aneurysm, was a soft spoken man who had been under his doctor's care since I had gotten to know him in 2001 and, against his doctor's orders, frequently smoked while pulling samples to taste out of various casks. Ironically, in the past three years, he had completed renovated his chai, installing a new press and replacing his cement tanks with a fleet of stainless steel. His domaine was poised to move onto the next level. Domaine Amido is now run by Christian's daughter Nathalie.
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Châteauneuf-du-Pape is perhaps the best known appellation in the Southern Rhône. And for good reason. There are a number of striking details about Châteauneuf that differentiate it from its neighboring appellation. Its soil is composed of galets roulés, large round rocks who soak up the sun's heat during the day and give it to the vines at night. Grenache is the most widely planted grape, but 13 varietals are allowed within the blend, including five white varietals.
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Importers find producers in many different ways: at trade shows, through the press, by word of mouth. Rolland Gap, the owner of Domaine d'Aeria, was brought to my attention by a pharmacist in the Gers, nearly 400 miles away from the Rhône. Norbert Labernede is the lone inhabitant of Montreal-du-Gers who actually collects wine. In 1999, he gave me a bottle of a 1996 Cairanne he had bought from Rolland Gap.
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Rasteau is a small village (population 696) located in the Southern Rhone a short three miles east of Cairanne and 10 miles north of Gigondas. Until about ten years ago, Rasteau was most known for Vin Doux Naturel (VDN) or muted-sweet wines. In fact, Rasteau gained appellation status in 1967 because of these sweet wines. These were made from overripe Grenache, whose fermentation was stopped with the addition of alcohol, yielding a rich red wine like port. As Beaumes de Venise was known for its sweet white Muscat, Rasteau was known for its sweet red Grenache.
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Domaine de Piaugier is situated in and around the village of Sablet, which stands proudly at the feet of the jagged Dentelles de Montmirail in the Vaucluse department of the Southern Rhône. The Sablet vineyards were first developed under the protection of the Counts of Toulouse to whom the property once belonged. In the 14th Century, this wine making activity was confirmed by the Avignon Popes under whose control the region had by then passed. Sablet was given the classification Côtes du Rhône Villages Sablet in 1974.
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The vineyards of Gigondas are some of the most ancient in the Southern Rhone. Since Roman times, olive trees and fruit trees were always planted beside the vines. In 1956, a particularly severe spring-freeze destroyed nearly all the fruit trees, leaving just the vines and forcing the producers to concentrate only on their wines. After much hard work, Gigondas gained appellation status in 1966.
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Domaine Saint-Amant is a small domaine (10 hectares or 24.7 acres) whose fame and reputation has grown immensely in the past ten years. The domaine is located in the town of Suzette, a tiny commune at the top of a twisting road above the dentelles de Montmirail (the jagged mountain ridge above Gigondas). The property was bought by Parisian businessman Jacques Wallut nearly 30 years ago, and when he left the high tech world, he began focusing on his new passion.
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The Domaine Terrasses d'Eole is located in the heart of Provence, at the bottom of Mount Ventoux, in the small town of Mazan. The property offers an exceptional view of Mount Ventoux, home to one of the most famous stages of the Tour de France. In the area exposed to the mistral or severe winds that pass through the Southern Rhône, the domaine's name is taken from the God of wind, Eole.
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