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Domaine Ricard Touraine

Domaine Ricard lies on the north side of the Cher River, about a forty-five minute drive from Tours. Chenonceaux, the famous castle that juts into the river, is about twenty kilometers to the west. We have left the Chenin Blanc territory of Vouvray and Montlouis near Tours and passed into firm Sauvignon Blanc terrain, which continues to the east through Quincy, Menatou Salon, Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé.

Touraine has never been rated as highly as the aforementioned regions, and few independent producers existed outside of the cooperative. But times change, demand soars in other regions and prices rise, leaving a void for well-priced, affordable wine. With the increased prices of Sancerre, we saw interest in Menatou rise, then Quincy and now Touraine is looked at as the value white wine of the Loire. However, with quality rising with frightening speed, who knows how long that can last?

Grapes have been grown on the property for 5 generations, and the Ricard family were founding members of the local Oisy-Théssé wine coopérative. The co-op, like many in France, were mostly interested in quantity over quality, with grapes being paid for by the kilo and wine being made in a factory setting.

Vincent Ricard, 2010

In the early nineties, Vincent Ricard studied viticulture and did an apprenticeship in Chinon. In 1996, after two years of study, he received an enology degree. Fresh out of school, he returned to Chinon, where Philippe Alliet, for whom he had worked earlier, offered him a job. For a couple of years, Vincent learned to vinify red wine and follow it in barrel. More importantly, however, he learned the obsessive vineyard details practiced by Alliet (ground cover, plowing, green harvests, organic farming to name some), methods that were not taught by his teachers at school.

Vincent decided to move closer to home and took a job in Montlouis with Claude Levasseur, the uncle of Francois Chidaine, in 1997. It was here that he learned to vinify white wine in barrel and follow its progression in oak.

In the spring of 1998, Vincent returned home and was employed by his father Alain in his hometown Théssé. The following year, they bought themselves out of their cooperative contract, formed a GAEC together, and Domaine Ricard was born.

Since that time, many things have changed at the property: Alain has retired, Vincent has married and become a father, several new parcels of vines have been purchased, the vineyards have become fully organic, and the domaine is now one of the most esteemed in the appellation.

The vineyards lie on southern facing slopes, with nearly fifteen hectares planted in Sauvignon Blanc, along with a bit of Gamay, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay and Cot (Malbec). Vincent lets grass grow between his rows of vines instead of removing it with herbicide. No pesticides are used to combat insects. Vines are replaced using the shoots of neighboring vines. Pruning and occasional de-budding helps to limit yields.

Inside the cave at Domaine Ricard

Vincent has expanded his cave, once a simple, small space built into the side of a hill and now a rather modern winery (although still built into the same side of the hill and attached to the old cave). The majority of his production is white, and most of that is split between three dry Sauvignon blanc cuvées. He also makes a couple of sweet wines, as well as a couple of solid red wines. Nearly three-quarters of his production is exported, and his wines have been praised by the international press. Like many other young producers in the Loire, he has chosen modern labels for his wines based on canvases painted by a friend, all of which are on display in his small but modern tasting room.

The P'tit Villain Rouge canvas and label

Ricard's wines are all about balance: The fruit is always lifted by just the right amount of acidity, and never come across as being heavy. They are, however, precise with their fruit and defined on their finish, and are amazing values to boot!

Le Petiot: (100% Sauvignon Blanc, hand harvested from 30 year-old vines with a yield of about 50 hl/ha (3.5-4 tons an acre). A selection is made of the best juice. Fermened at a low temperature for three weeks then aged on its fine lees in stainless-steel tanks. About 20% is aged in well-seasoned barrels (that have already seen 3 wines). Bright citrus aromas (grapefruit, lemon) along with a savory herbal touch. Great balance of fruit and acidity.

Les Trois Chenes: 100% Sauvignon Blanc coming from old vines (the oldest planted in 1947) on a gentle slope near the top of the hill. The vineyards face directly south, and the soil is clay and limestone. The grapes are hand-harvested and pass through a sorting table. Yields average about 35 hl/ha (2-2.5 tons an acre). The wine is barrel-fermented for three months, then aged in barrel for 8 months, with lees-stirring every four days or so. A delicious mouthful of Sauvignon Blanc that overachieves not only its appellation but also those to the east, notably Sancerre. Great texture, bright white peach fruit, classy vanilla notes and good underlying acidity make this an absolute pleasure to drink.

Point Interrogation: This is Ricard's top white, made with 100% Sauvignon Blanc with an average yield of 23 hl/ha (under 2 tons an acre). Fermented in 400 liter oak barrels for three months, then aged in 225 liter barrels for 11 months. Highly concentrated Sauvignon fruit, exotic yet with lift, framed by a pure vanilla streak, and with length that goes on and on. Awesome wine!

Clos de Vauriou: This red wine comes from a small clos planted with 35 year-old Gamay vines with a yield of 45 hl/ha (3 tons an acre) as well as a bit of Cot (Malbec). Fermentation in cement tanks, with malolactic in well-seasoned oak barrels. Bottled after a very light filtration. Red fruit with a touch of licorice and a lightly tannic finish. Great bistro wine.