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Domaine Etienne Daulny Sancerre

Sancerre is located at the eastern end of the Loire Valley, on the western banks of the Loire river. Its sole grape variety for white wines is Sauvignon Blanc, and when one thinks of French wine made with that grape, Sancerre must come to mind first. The vineyards extend over eleven communes, each with their own network of hills which are home to the appellation's top vineyards.

Like most wine regions in France, most producers have multiple vineyard holdings scattered across a number of different terrains and microclimates. Etienne Daulny owns 15 hectares of vines (37 acres) which are divided into about 50 different plots. The soils of these plots differ greatly but help to provide complexity found in Sancerre: the weakest soil is clay and flint, and has vines with the most superficial root system: however, grapes coming from these vines have good acidity and forward fruit that gives them a lot of immediate appeal. Another type of soil in other vineyards is called portlandian, which combines limestone with pieces of chalk. This soil has good heat retention, giving the fruit from the vine a little more structure while still allowing plenty of fruit and floral aromas to emerge young. The third type of soil is called kimmeridgian and combines clay with limestone. This soil is harder, and more difficult for the roots to permeate. However, the resultant wines have more structure and potential complexity. Daulny combines various plots from these varying soil types into his regular cuvée of Sancerre.

The vineyards of Sancerre surround the hilltop town

But Daulny's normal cuvée is far from normal: after all, grapes from some of the appellations most revered vineyards make their way into this cuvée, including old vine plantings at Les Monts Damnés, Les Bois Butteux and La Perriere. His yield is about 50 hl/ha (3.4 tons an acre -- normal for Sancerre) and the wine is fermented and aged in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. The wine sees no malolactic fermentation and thus retains freshness and vibrancy beneath plenty of forward, ripe fruit.

Etienne Daulny 2003

Daulny also puts out a single vineyard cuvée from a gentle slope just above Verdigny. Called the Clos de Chaudenay (the hot spot), the southwest facing vines average 40 years of age. Yields are about 45 hl/ha (three tons) and the harvest is entirely by hand. Aging is mostly in stainless steel, with a small percentage aged in well-seasoned, oversized oak barrels. This touch gives the wine a bit more complexity without tasting oaky.

Made from 40-year-old sauvignon blanc vines, this Sancerre captures the essence of the grape with floral, mineral and ground coffee bean aromas and grapefruit, white peach flavors. A small percentage was aged in older oak but the fruit from this vineyard is powerful enough to absorb it, giving the wine a bit of texture and body. With bright acidity and fruit, this is a great wine to have with a fish dish cooked with fava beans as well as one where the favas are the main event.

— The San Francisco Examiner, May 12, 2007