Champagne Eric Rodez

Eric Rodez is not only a champagne producer but also the mayor of Ambonnay, renowned champagne village in the Montagne de Reims. Ambonnay, with its medieval architecture, was a thriving town in the Middle Ages and was erected on the spot of a Gallo-Roman villa. At the beginning of the 11th century, Templar monks built a church in the center of town, a beautiful example of Roman architecture gradually modified with Gothic touches over the years.

Unlike Burgundy, where certain vineyards are rated according to their quality, the classification in the Champagne region is rated by villages. Established at the end of the 19th century, the ratings are expressed from 80% to 100%. The 100% wines are considered to offer the highest qualitative potential, taking into account the quality of the soil, the nature of the subsoils and the micro-climate. Only 17 villages are rated 100%, known as Grand Cru villages, and Ambonnay is one of these.

Ambonnay is one of the most sought after sites for Pinot Noir in the Montagne de Reims. Rodez has nine hectares planted along the south and southeastern facing slopes of the village. The chalky soils are covered by a thin layer of mixed clay and limestone, ideal for the fruity and vinous qualities of Pinot destined for a secondary fermentation in bottle. At 130 meters above sea level, the grapes are normally protected from spring frosts.

Ambonnay's Eric Rodez

The Rodez family has been producing their champagne for generations, not simply selling their grapes to large houses. Records show that Jean-Baptiste produced in 1757, Marie-Louis in 1786, Louis in 1819, Eugene in 1850, Camille in 1877, Pol in 1905 and Jean in 1931. Each generation has added several small parcels of vineyards, giving them additional material with which to blend. Eric's son Mickaël is patiently waiting his turn in line.

Rodez also has 7 hectares of Chardonnay, planted along the southeastern facing slopes where the soil is a bit lighter and finer. In total, the their 16 hectares of vineyards, divided between 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay. Pinot Noir gives full-bodied structure and a dense fruitiness, the masculine side of a wine. Chardonnay is more lively, more nervous and more floral. It provides delicacy and a feminine counterpart to Pinot.

The vineyards are worked in a traditional way, just like Eric's grandparents once worked the soils. He hesitates to use the word organic, because he is not certified; but as a grower, he uses no pesticides, fertilizers or synthetic sprays on his plants. He plows his soils and limits his yields through careful pruning.

Barrels at Rodez

About 70% of his champagne is fermented and aged in oak; malolactic fermentation is generally blocked to retain acidity. Eric worked at Krug for several years, and it was there that he really developed his passion for blending. While many champagnes are mostly from one year with perhaps a small amount of the previous vintage or two blended in, Rodez relies heavily on reserve wines (wines not from the current vintage) and often blends anywhere from five to ten different vintages in his final cuvées.

For him, it is the most secret and individualistic part of his work. As he says: "It is a real pleasure to stand in front of a wide range of samples from a current year to which we'll add numerous wines from previous years. It's the creation of something new, like putting musical notes down on paper. And you're never sure where the melody will go," he adds. "You try to direct it but it's like walking up a circular staircase without knowing where it will lead. I find that incredibly exciting."

Rodez champagnes are excellent. They are rich yet elegant, vinous yet complex, and delicious in every sense of the word. In addition, with components from wines going back sometimes a decade, they are also tremendous values!

Cuvée de Crayères: This brut Champagne is made with a blend of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay. With 40 to 45% reserve wines used in the blend. Pinot Noir brings body and structure, Chardonnay conveys delicacy and elegance. The nose is a floral, with a hint of citrus fruits. The palate is balanced and dense.

Blanc de Blancs: Brut Champagne produced exclusively from several different harvests of Chardonnay. In fact, this cuvée normally sees 5 or 6 different vintages, in order to ensure the same delicacy between years. Very flowery and delicate, and much more sensual than champagnes made with strictly high percentages of Pinot Noir.

2002: Brut Champagne produced from the outstanding 2002 vintage. Its delicacy may be compared to that of the Cuvée des Crayères because the proportions in the blending of the Chardonnay and the Pinot Noir are the same (50%-50%), but it is clearly more complex, offering much better length. Made from vines grown in the middle of the hillside, it reveals the complexity of its origins, with hints of ripe pear and touches of recently cut hay. The vinous palate, full and fresh, is remarkably well-balanced.