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Domaine Bersan Saint Bris & Irancy

Saint Bris is the only appellation in Burgundy where the obligatory white grape is Sauvignon Blanc. The commune of St. Bris lies about 15 kilometers southwest of Chablis and 7 kilometers southeast of Auxerre in the Yonne département (89).

The name of the village, Saint Bris, comes from the name of the Christian martyr, Sanctus Priscus (Saint Prix in French). His name was attached to the village until after the revolution when it became Saint Bris. It was finally changed to Saint Bris le Vineux at the beginning of the twentieth century.

In the 14th century, the village was fortified by a surrounding wall with 17 towers, but today only the gate remains. There still exists a network of tunnels that link the cellars and the houses together, enabling better defense and escape when the village was under attack. The castle in the center of the village, next to the church, is more recent. It was built in the 18th century. Today it belongs to the village council and is used as the local primary school.

Monks have cultivated vines in the village since the first century AD. By the 12th century, there were nearly 1,100 hectares under vine, with over 450 wine growers. Nearly all of these vines were knocked out when phylloxera louse ravaged the vineyards at the end of the nineteenth century.

Jean-Christophe Bersan pulls some Sauvignon from tank

Saint Bris was considered a VDQS after 1974, and finally gained appellation status for the Sauvignon Blanc grape in 2001. 550 hectares surrounding the village are planted with vines. Normally these vines are planted on the flatter ground or plateau formed by Portlandian limestone.

The Bersan family have been living in Saint Bris for many generations. Jean-Louis and his son Jean-Christophe own 20 hectares of vines and convert all of their fruit into wine at their winery just outside the village center. They are currently in conversion to organic viticulture, and will be certified in 2011. Yields average around 55 hectoliters per hectare, or 3.5 tons per acre. The wine is fermented and aged in stainless-steel tanks, where about 33% of the wine passes its malolactic fermentation. The wine is very aromatic (grapefruit and flowers) with medium-body, citrus and mineral notes on the palate, and a crisp, mouthwatering finish. It works well as an aperitif, and is a great partner for shellfish, light fish, cold salads and goat cheese.

The Bersans also make a red wine from the neighboring village Irancy. This village lies two kilometers from the Yonne River and is surrounded by a large natural amphitheatre of vines. Lying 18 kilometers southwest of Chablis, it one of the most northern areas in France that grows red grapes. Viticulture has been practiced in the region for at least twelve centuries, and the arrival of the monks in the 11th century saw even more focus on wine. Up until the revolution at the end of the 1700s, the inhabitants of Irancy was largely dependent upon the Abbey Saint-Germain in Auxerre. Irancy was also the birthplace in 1713 of Jacques-Germain Soufflot, the neo-classical architect whose most famous work is the Pantheon in Paris.

When the phylloxera hit the region in the late 19th century, most of the vineyards were wiped out and it took the area nearly fifty years to recover. Strangely, vines planted on American rootstock produced few grapes. Moist weather led to problems with mildew and insects. During the First World War, the small village lost more than 30 of its men. Between the two World Wars, vineyards dwindled to less than 20 hectares. It was only after the liberation of France that the vineyards began to once again expand.

Today the Irancy appellation covers some 315 hectares, but only about half of that are planted. During the 1970s, Irancy was a VDQS (Vin de Qualité Superieur) and its producers were eventually allowed to label their bottles Bourgogne Irancy. In 1991, the VDQS was extended to cover some of vines in the neighboring communes of Cravant and Vincelottes. Finally, in 1998, Irancy was awarded its own appellation, joining two other villages in northern Burgundy, Saint-Bris and Chablis.

While a small amount of rose is produced, the region produces mainly red wines made with Pinot Noir (which must account for 90% of the blend). Also permitted are lesser-known Burgundy varieties César, a highly productive, late ripening variety that adds both color and tannin, and the nearly extinct Tressot, apparently a cross between Duras and Petit Verdot.

The vineyards of Irancy are are planted on slopes composed of Kimmeridgien limestone, often interspersed with cherry orchards. This highly-mineraled soil and a cool climate help to give the wines of Irancy bright acid and a mineraled tang, highly enjoyable in warmer weather when served with a light chill.

Bersan's Cuvée Louis Bersan is made with 100% old-vine Pinot Noir, made with an average yield of 40 hl/ha (just under 3 tons to the acre). It is aged in oak barrels that have already seen one wine. The minerals and acidity really lift the fruit of this wine, and make it an ideal partner for simple plates like baked chicken, pork chops or, if one has a bit more time, coq au vin.