Textural and Taste Differences Between Cognac and Armagnac

Armagnacs and cognacs fewer than 10 years old comprise more than 90% of the world market. Yet armagnacs and cognacs fewer than 10 years old are not the examples by which one should judge either of these spirits. Their adulteration is widespread and their usual reduction tremendously cuts their concentration. With the skill of those in the blending laboratory, it is often difficult to determine what flavors are pure and which simulate flavors that would normally arise after a much longer aging period (as is the case in the wine world with wood chips, chaptilization, addition of supplementary varietals, etc.). Many producers and négociants, realizing that they are not serious products, will not even taste VSOP or XO-level releases to journalists or connoisseurs.

The components of both armagnac and cognac pass through stages during their lives: fresh fruit (plum, apricot, pear, quince) and floral notes evolve to preserved fruit (imagine the aforementioned as jam) then dried fruit. Hard toffee changes to soft toffee, then cream or even butter. Slow oxidation in cask causes almond and walnut notes (rancio) to surface. The barrel, which once gave pepper, clove and cinnamon notes, finally overwhelms the remaining fruit with tannin.

Generally speaking, at the fifteen-year mark, a single-distilled armagnac has a fatter texture than a double-distilled cognac (comparable to the difference between vodka in the freezer and vodka at room temperature). Because of its grapes and because the outgoing vapors are forced into contact with the incoming wine during its sole distillation, armagnac also tends to show more primary fruit than cognac. As traditional armagnac is not reduced, its heightened alcohol helps push its concentrated aromas from the glass. The most typical fruit includes vine flowers, orange, plum, quince and apricot. The reaction with armagnac and the sugars of the oak often yields notes of vanilla, caramel, toffee, buttered toffee, maple syrup and and exotic note of coconut milk. With aging, armagnacs often develop intriguing earth and smoke aromas. Armagnacs generally hit their peak between 20 and 30 years of age.

Cognac's fruit tends to be lighter (pear, orange) and more floral. Because Ugni Blanc is the chief cognac grape and because cognac is diluted to 80 proof, its aromas are not always as forthcoming as those of armagnac. Cognacs are the better long distance runner, however, perhaps due to their higher alcohol, they often peak around the 30- to 40- year mark and develop extremely subtle rancio notes.

After 35 years of age, most armagnacs and cognacs that stay in barrel begin to decline. Not only does the alcohol begin to drop below the legal 40%, but the wood notes begin to dominate the fruit.

While armagnac perhaps peaks by its 30th birthday, a well-raised cognac (perhaps because of its higher initial alcohol degree) can continue to evolve until its 50th birthday.