What is Cognac?

Cognac is France's best known brandy, originating in the Charente region of Southwestern France, about 100 miles northeast of Bordeaux. Cognac is divided into six regions: the central region is called the Grande Champagne and has a chalk-based soil, as does much of the next zone, the Petite Champagne. As one moves outwards, the chalk changes to limestone and then sand, through the Fins Bois, Borderies, Bons Bois and Bois Communes. These soils yield spirits with different textures and aging capability – important factors when attempting to duplicate a blend a million bottles a year for decades.

98% of the Cognac vineyards are planted with Ugni Blanc, although miniscule parcels of Folle Blanche and Colombard exist. The wine from these grapes reaches a very low alcohol level (7-9 degrees) while retaining high acidity. Wines of this sort are ideal for distillation, and are distilled several months after the harvest.

The typical pot still used for double-distillation is often referred to as the alambic Charentaise because of its widespread use in cognac. The still is comprised of several onion-shaped copper domes and holding tanks. The wine enters a central dome and gradually flows into a heating tank, under which a gas flame burns steadily. As the wine reaches the boiling point, a vapor begins to rise (just as it does with boiling water). This steam collects against the inside of the dome, then searches for a place to escape. Its only exiting point is a hole that leads to the curved pipe known as the swan's neck. Gravity then takes the vapor downward through a pipe coiled around a holding tank filled with cold water. From there it reconverts into liquid and exits the still with an alcohol level of around 28% or 56 proof.

Cognac still

A distiller carefully surveys the entire process. The first spirits to come out of the still, known as the têtes or heads, normally contain such high levels of impurities that they are discarded. The majority of the distillation, called the brouillis, is kept. The wine that takes the longest time to distill and remains at the end, called the queues or tails, is normally too weak and stripped of flavor to produce anything worth keeping. Consequently, like the heads, the tails are often discarded.

The useable material (brouillis) from the first distillation is collected and housed in holding tanks. Afterwards, it is reinstated in the still and processed again. This time there is less waste material, and 99% is kept. The spirit exits at a higher strength the second time, normally somewhere between 67° and 72°. From there it goes straight into oak barrels.

The Aging Process

Cognac uses 350-liter barrels made of either Limousin or Tronçais oaks. As the eau de vie exits the still at around 144 proof, alcoholic reduction begins at a very early age. This reduction is either done with distilled water or petites eaux (a 60 proof blend of distilled water and cognac). These additions are made once or twice a year. Most cognac finally reaches the market between 80 and 86 proof.